The Cold War ended almost two decades ago, but a few vestiges remain. The most prominent of these is the Korean Demilitarized Zone, or the DMZ, the 155 mile long border between North and South Korea. The DMZ is about 2.5 miles across in most areas, although at Panmunjeom soldiers from both sides come face to face.
The DMZ, the most heavily fortified border in the world, is the result of the division of the Korean peninsula between the Communist North and the free South. In 1948 the 38th parallel north was established as the border between the newly formed countries of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (North) and the Republic of Korea (South). In 1950 the North, with Soviet support, invaded the South, beginning the Korean War. At first the North met with success, conquering most of the South. However, U.S. intervention and greater coordination of the South allowed South Korea to force DPRK forces back across the original border. The war was one of the most brutal ever fought and resulted in stalemate with very little accomplished.
Finally, in 1953 a cease-fire was reached, which placed the border once again at the 38th parallel. This armistice did not end the war; technically the Korean war continues to this day. Thus any visit to the DMZ is a visit to a legitimate war zone with tensions as high today as they were at the height of the Cold War.
On Thursday, July 31 my mother and I visited the DMZ. We took the USO tour, one of the most complete tours available. We departed from Seoul at 7:30 a.m., heading north.
Our first stop was at a briefing station, where we watched a slideshow on the DMZ and signed our waivers.
Our next stop was the highlight of the tour, Panmunjeom, of the Joint Security Area (JSA). This is the place often seen on the news. Here, soldiers from both sides stare each other down. The place is surreal; you can feel the tension as soon as you arrive.
The gray building in the background is the North Korean welcome center. From the “safety” of the South we were able to see a North Korean soldier watching our every move. We were told to ignore him, as any gestures could be seen as a sign of aggression. No wonder we had to sign waivers.
A close-up of the welcome center. I’m guessing it doesn’t get used very often. If you look closely, you can see the North Korean soldier watching us. Also, of the second floor, you can see some men working.
South Korean soldiers guarding the border.
Inside the Military Armistice Commission (MAC) Building. This is where both sides meet for talks. The building is located exactly on the border; half is in South Korea and half in North Korea. The soldier is standing on the line; to his right is the South, to his left the North.
Also inside the MAC building, this is the part of the building in North Korea. The soldier stands guard of the door as it opens directly to the North. We were allowed to move freely inside the building, even in the North Korean half, but obviously this door is off limits.
The line between freedom and tyranny.
This is KijÅng-dong, also nicknamed Propaganda Village in the South. A North Korean village, it earned this nickname because no one lives there; it was simply built in an effort to show South Koreans how wonderful the North is.
Another shot of Propaganda Village. The flagpole is the tallest in the world and was built in response to a flagpole across the border in Daeseong-dong. When the flagpole in this town was built, it was taller than its counterpart in the North. Thus, for propaganda purposes, North Korea built an even taller flagpole.
A Korean War monument near the Military Demarcation Line (DML).
The actual DML, or the border between North and South.
The site of the Ax Murder Incident. In 1976 American soldiers trimming a poplar tree near the Bridge of No Return were attacked by North Korean soldiers brandishing crowbars and clubs. Using axes dropped by the tree trimmers, North Korean soldiers killed two Americans–Capt. Arthur Boniface and Lt. Mark Barrett. The ax used in the attack is displayed at the North Korean Peace Museum, located about 50 meters north of the JSA.
The Bridge of No Return, so called because it was used for prisoner exchanges after the Korean war. Both sides brought their POWs here and allowed them to chose which side they wished to go to. However, once they decided they could never return to the other side.
This is an observatory from which North Korean can be viewed. Photography is prohibited from the observatory, however.
Our final stop was the Third Tunnel of Aggression, built by the North during the 1970s to use in a possible surprise attack. Tellingly, it was built during peace talks with the South. It was discovered after South Korea was warned of its presence by a defector. Four such tunnels have been discovered, but it’s believed there may be up to ten others. Photography was prohibited here.
Our return to Seoul.
King Seojong
